After having served multiple tenures in J&K, we, a group of three veterans, decided to revisit the pristine Kashmir valley with our wives to experience the post Art 370-abolition environment. It was an eight-day tour from 21 to 28 March 24. We stayed in local 3/4- star hotels and had a dedicated Innova Crysta for travel. Kashmir is witnessing an unprecedented rush of tourists. Every single hotel is fully booked. All tourist spots are teeming with hordes of tourists. At some places, even walking is difficult. Surprisingly, most of the tourists were of higher age groups. Apparently, every Indian is keen to get a first-hand experience of the changed environment. All were happy to observe that J&K had been rescued from the abyss in which it had been sliding.
CRPF personnel are doing an admirable job through regular patrolling to instil confidence in the populace. The natural beauty of the valley is unparalleled. It is truly a heaven on earth. But then… Whereas the Centre has made immense efforts to promote tourism, the local administration has failed miserably. It appears to have washed its hands off all the responsibilities. During our complete visit, we did not come across a single state official or policeman at the tourist places. Local trade unions rule the roost and swindle the helpless tourists.
Extortion by the local thugs is rampant and tourists are left to fend for themselves. It is a well-organised mafia operation. All reputed tour operators issue an advisory to the Kashmir-bound tourists to caution them, “Be very careful while negotiating. Be very clear and certain what you commit and what they commit. Do not get into arguments with them, they can be rude as well. Also beware of vendors like photographers, guides, ponywalas and cab drivers.
Remember to take decisions yourself. Do not believe anyone, not even us or the driver or the hotel manager.” Fearing reprisals by the local goons, the tour operators ask the tourists not to tell anyone about the cautionary advice. They beseech, “For any help, call us separately, not in front of anyone, driver, guide, vendors, etc.” Can there be a more damning proof of the dreadful state of affairs in Kashmir, wherein even the tour organisers are scared of the mafia?
The Mughal Gardens Most of them are under renovation. Sadly, their upkeep and maintenance are not up to the mark. At many places the steps need urgent attention. There are no railings. Toilets are too far away and poorly kept. There is always a local goon demanding money for their use. There are no garbage bins. At one garden, security staff at the entry gate was retaining the entry tickets for recycling, thereby pocketing the ill-gotten money.
Doodhpathari Although an excellent tarred road exits, taxies are stopped 2 km short of the tourist spot (Shaliganga river site) and the tourists are asked to get down. They are given three options to reach the site – walk both-ways in high-altitude area (8957 feet); or hire a pony by paying the demanded charges; or ride an ATV (a four wheeled all-terrain vehicle) for a fee of Rs 1,000-1,500 per person. With a single pillion rider straddled behind the driver, it is 2 no option for the ladies. Moreover, an ATV ride is an adventure and only the young can dare. As all the three options are unviable for most tourists, especially the elderly, they never reach the river site. The State government is guilty of succumbing to the local hoodlums and thereby depriving the tourists of reaching Doodhpathari – shameful indeed.
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